Grooming Brows and Beard

Why brows and beards matter

Brows matter more than they seem: when brows were removed from photos of famous people they became harder to recognise than when the eyes were removed (Sadr et al., 2003). Shape and position may also change how alert or tired a face looks. A beard or stubble line changes the outline of the lower face and can hide or accentuate the jaw and chin.

On beards, one experiment found women rated heavy stubble as most attractive, while full beards scored highest for perceived health and parenting ability (Dixson & Brooks, 2013). That is one study of one group of raters, and personal taste varies (Hönekopp, 2006), so choose what suits you. Both brows and beards are quick to change and mostly reversible.

Shaping your brows

Map them first

Use a pencil or a clean spoolie handle held straight against the face:

1. Start point: hold the pencil vertically against the side of the nose and brow. The brow should begin roughly where it meets the inner corner of the eye.
2. Arch: angle the pencil from the nostril, through the pupil of the eye while looking forward. This is roughly where the highest point sits.
3. End point: angle the pencil from the nostril past the outer corner of the eye. The brow should finish about there.

Those are the guidelines makeup artists commonly use. Your natural growth pattern matters more than a formula.

Trim and tidy

• Brush hairs upward and snip only those that extend beyond the brow line, with small scissors.
• Tweeze stray hairs one at a time in the direction of growth, ideally after a warm shower when pores are open.
• Remove hair from below the brow and between the brows, and leave the top line mostly alone.
• Stop often and step back from the mirror. Over-plucking is an easy mistake and hair may not regrow.

Professional options

Threading, waxing and tinting are available at salons. Choose a clean, licensed salon. Ask for a patch test for tints, and avoid permanent changes unless you are sure.

Choosing a brow style for your face

The suggestions above are styling conventions, not research findings. Brows that tilt slightly upward at the tail may lift the eye area, and downward tails can look heavier. See canthal tilt explained for how brow and eye lines interact.

Beards and stubble

Decide on a length

• Stubble (1 to 3 mm) is low maintenance and keeps the jaw visible.
• Short beard (3 to 10 mm) adds structure and covers weak spots.
• Full beard needs patience and shaping. It can lengthen a round face and fill out a narrow chin.

Define the lines

The neckline and cheek line make the difference between tidy and unkempt:

1. Neckline: imagine a curve starting about a finger-width above your Adam's apple, running behind the jaw angle up to the ear. Shave everything below it.
2. Cheek line: keep it natural or tidy just above the cheekbone, and avoid cutting it too high or too straight.
3. Moustache: trim above the lip so hair does not drop into your mouth.

Match your face shape

• Round: keep sides shorter and add length at the chin to elongate.
• Square: a short, even beard keeps the strong jaw visible, or fuller sides soften it.
• Oval: most styles work.
• Heart: fuller at the chin balances a narrow chin.
• Long or rectangular: keep length on the sides and a shorter chin to avoid lengthening the face further.

Tools and routine

• Wash your face and beard regularly with a gentle cleanser. A beard hides skin that still needs care.
• Moisturise the skin beneath a beard to avoid flaking.
• Trim on dry hair to see the true length.
• Replace razor blades often and disinfect tweezers.
• Shave in the direction of growth to reduce ingrown hairs.

Common problems and fixes

There is no safe way to chemically force beard growth at home. Minoxidil and similar treatments are medicines with side effects and should be discussed with a doctor.

Putting it together

A finished look has three things: a haircut that suits your face, brows you've tidied and a beard or clean-shaven finish that is deliberate. Do one at a time and judge in the same light. Our guides on face shape and hairstyles will help you choose.

LookFlex's scan reads brow-to-eye distance and face shape and uses them to suggest grooming steps in your plan. You can try a free scan on your iPhone and use the result as a starting point for a conversation with your barber.